JoeCanuck
General Section => Customs => Topic started by: crazylegs on January 07, 2013, 02:11:06 PM
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The paint for customs is it the same as the old model paint in the little glass jars?
Is there a preference. I know enough not to use acrylic or water paints!
Thanks for any help
CL
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I'm not an expert, but personally I use Citadel Acrylic. Yes acrylic would probably chip is you don't apply a protective coat or if you don't sand off rubbing spots, but the problem I have with enamel paint is that it stays sticky on soft plastic.
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Crazy Legs, I don't endorse Humbrol but if you must use enamel paint, go for Humbrol. Absolutely avoid Testor's (aka"old model paint in the little glass jars"). Testor's will never cure on joes, and if they do, they will have gathered a protective layer of dust LOL which will have made the paint cure!
Testor's metallic finishes (silver, gold, bronze, etc) are less messy though. I still use the ones that I have lying around.
I prefer Enamel to acrylic for the fact that I find it easier to apply than acrylic. There are however more advantages to using acrylics, per instance the drying time is significantly shorter. Acrilic can be a few minutes. Enamel can take up to 48 hours and less depending of course on how impatient you can become :P . Patience is one of my virtues I think, so enamel was never a problem for me and I like the end result. When I'm in a rush, I'll settle for acrylics. So It's handy to have both. Acrylics is less toxic in my opinion, but long exposure to either one is still nocive to your health so make sure to paint in a well ventilated area.
To each his own I say! ;)
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I agree with lj22 about humbrol. still i find that it doesn't dry completely, soft plastic like arms and legs are not very responsive ;-)
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I use Tamiya, and Citidel, in a spray bomb and brush on, it is acrylic.
To stop the chipping i do as others have suggested, and lightly sand areas of rubbing, and use a protective coating. For the protective coating I use games workshop purity seal spray bomb.
I tend to stay away from enamel unless I'm working with metal.
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I guess its just my prefence but I use testors. I dont have any problems with it drying. It needs to be mixed well everytime its used or it does not cure correctly as lj22 was saying.
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I agree with lj22 about humbrol. still i find that it doesn't dry completely, soft plastic like arms and legs are not very responsive ;-)
And I agree with you about the Citadel paint. It's the one I have and It's quite good actually.
Maybe that Enamel doesn't dry completely after a normal period of time, then again on soft bendable plastics, acrylic tends to crack and ship where enamel doesn't.
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I agree with lj22 about humbrol. still i find that it doesn't dry completely, soft plastic like arms and legs are not very responsive ;-)
And I agree with you about the Citadel paint. It's the one I have and It's quite good actually.
Maybe that Enamel doesn't dry completely after a normal period of time, then again on soft bendable plastics, acrylic tends to crack and ship where enamel doesn't.
correct
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wow i'm really out of the know on the paints and applications...i need a entry level custom program...just paint wise :P
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Just to confuse you more ;) here are more how-to: http://wiki.joecustoms.com/wiki/Customizing_Guide#Painting (http://wiki.joecustoms.com/wiki/Customizing_Guide#Painting)
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thanks marty, lots of resources there for me to read up on :)
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If we're talking about painting 25th/modern joes, model master acryl is the way to go. Tamiya also makes a good paint and I've heard citadel works. Except for two bottles of tamiya, I have only used model master acryl by testors. The old model paints and enamels are supposed to have issues with never drying as I understand it.
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Very interesting...tis all greek to me, i think I need to find a way to get to the con, and set up with the customizers!