Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[olyeller01]

As I have embarked upon the process of creating my first custom GI Joe figure, I have run into a few problems, as expected, and those problems have left me with a lot of questions.  I figured that my many years spent building model cars in my teenage years would help me, and it has to a certain extent, but I still have some questions.

What paint is the best to use on custom figures?  I used Testors Model Masters enamel (cause it's what I had laying around, that's why!) and it takes absolutely freaking FOREVER to cure.  Is there anything I can do to speed up the curing time that won't melt my figure or my paint job?

What tool/brush/etc is the best for fine detail work?

Any other painting tips you can give me?

I can't wait to finish my first custom and post him on the board for all to see...but the freaking paint has to cure first.

I can offer a couple of painting tips, some of which is based on my time as an assistant manager for a Sherwin-Williams store.

First, for painting really bright colors, consider priming with a medium-gray primer.  Not only will the gray primer help the bright color cover better, it'll also make it pop more.  Even on (gasp!) the dreaded bright reds.

Second, if you're doing a custom vehicle...or anything else for that matter...and you're gonna have to paint some of that hard, slick ABS plastic, consider using XIM 400 White spraycan primer underneath your paint.  XIM is a bonding primer that can be used to paint glass, so it'll laugh at being asked to stick to your wimpy plastic.  Ever since I started using XIM to prime pretty much everything, I have had absolutely NO adhesion or lifting problems.  Trust the paint guy on this one.

[martin-montreal]

You have really good questions. Do you know this: http://wiki.joecustoms.com/wiki/Customizing_Guide

And, from a painter to another one... why not using XIM as a base coat on your fig. This would help avoiding chipping.

I also found that "washing" a fig with a nail polish remover helps removing the glossy factory sealer on Gi Joe figs. So, with that glossy finish removed + XIM base coat, that should be near a 100% chipping proof fig.

Unfortunately, I have no talent painting small details. So I'm not a good customizer 

Good luck and tell us if it works!

Martin

[ARROW]

What paint is the best to use on custom figures?  I used Testors Model Masters enamel (cause it's what I had laying around, that's why!) and it takes absolutely freaking FOREVER to cure.  Is there anything I can do to speed up the curing time that won't melt my figure or my paint job?

Enamels will never cure on action figures.
That is, unless you undercoat with an acrylic primer. Enamel paint has a chemical base that does not bind to the plasticizers in PVC plastic, which most action figures use.
Acrylic paint uses a different chemistry, and so binds to the plastic.
 Acrylics are the way to go.

If what you have painted with the enamels has not cured after a day ( it should be dry after an hour or so) then it will NEVER cure and should be stripped and repainted. To strip I've read using Easy-Off oven cleaner.

What tool/brush/etc is the best for fine detail work?

# 00 or #1 grade brushes, preferably a brand name like Winsor/Newton--are good for details.
A #2 or #3 for coverage.

Any other painting tips you can give me?

I adhere to the wisdom of two publications:

Shep Paine's classic " How to Build Dioramas" by Kalmbach publishing ( I prefer the first edition, rather than the later ones), and...
Any of the Citadel Painting guides put out by Games Workshop for their line of table-top gaming miniatures.
Citadel is also the name of their brand of acrylic paint, and its quite good.
Both books have multiple tips on painting, irrespective of their main themes ( diorama building, for one).

[latinjoe22]

Enamels will never cure on action figures.

Actually there is one Enamel paint brand that does cure on action figures. I know it does because I have used it on a Cobra de A?o custom a year ago. It was metallic silver paint. Application was easier than Acrylic in this case, and the result was very satisfactory. I'll have a look tonight and post the name of the brand tonight.

[NeoDragonKnight]

as people have already said, wash the figure in warm soapy water, rinse all the soap off.  And use acrylic paint if you can.  You will have to put 2 or 3 coats of paint on most likely. 

I use a brand called "Golden" but its pricey.  Most people use Tamia brand model paint.

[latinjoe22]

Enamels will never cure on action figures.

Actually there is one Enamel paint brand that does cure on action figures. I know it does because I have used it on a Cobra de A?o custom a year ago. It was metallic silver paint. Application was easier than Acrylic in this case, and the result was very satisfactory. I'll have a look tonight and post the name of the brand tonight.

My main recommandation is to go with Citadel paint if you prefer acrylic. I like Tamiya because it gives better results but you must be ultra patient with it to see results otherwise you screw up your job. If you're a beginner and you want a nice job done fast and easy, go with Citadel.

If you want to use Enamel paint for your Joes, avoid Testor's paints at all cost. They never cure and after so many joes died in vain on the operating table, I have learned my lesson to stay away from it.

If you must use Enamel, there is a paint that is higher grade than Testor's and it's the brand is called Humbrol. Here is a custom I did using Humbrol on the silver parts only. All surfaces cured perfectly. I think the pic says enough. I used Tamiya acrylic glossy paint X-18 for black surfaces, and XF-3 for the yellow parts. Note that the yellow paint was flat, so I had to varnish it with Artcoat from Citadel.

The Cobra insigna is from CobraStickers.com.

[olyeller01]

I will be good and darned if I could find Tamia or any of the other brands of paints you guys were talking about.  I went to Hobby Lobby & Michael's both, so I ended up with some Testors Model Masters Acrylic.  We'll see how it works. 

[canprime]

I will be good and darned if I could find Tamia or any of the other brands of paints you guys were talking about.  I went to Hobby Lobby & Michael's both, so I ended up with some Testors Model Masters Acrylic.  We'll see how it works. 

I use Testors Model Masters Acrylic almost solely.  I found it to be the best of many I have tried.  I will only use Tamiya for those weird or rare colours (neons, etc.)

Most others have already given you some pretty great tips.  I actually found that "washing" your item with GOJO hand cleaner using a toothbrush cleans and roughens the surface for painting.  Just make sure to use a small, soft toothbrush, little dabs of GOJO and scrub gently.  Then use paper towel to clean off the excess.  It gives the figure surface a slight roughness (not noticeable) that helps the paint adhere without extra layers of primer.

[olyeller01]

Whew!  Good to know that Testors MM Acrylic is actually good.  I was kinda sweating it.  Yeah, my first Joe custom didn't turn out so good.  25th/Resolute Joe Canuck is dead, due to a severe case of stickiness from using oil enamel instead of acrylic.  I was using RoC Firefly for him, and naturally TRU used to have a million of them, but now that I need another one they're all sold out.  Now I just gotta wait for TRU.com to send me my next victim 

[NeoDragonKnight]

mistakes are all part of the learning curve, no worries.

[ARROW]

mistakes are all part of the learning curve, no worries.

Oh, you have no idea.

Just last night I ruined my step-son's Warhammer tank model. We wanted to clean up some of the sloppy glue work he had done and rebuild the kit.
I did some cursory on-line reading and read that dunking the model into hot water would soften the glue and allow it to be dismantled.

So I go and boil a pot of water, grab the model in some tongs and dunk it.

Oh man.

It buckled and warped in seconds.......a total write-off.
The sad thing is that it did not work, and that BAD advice is still out there. Trust me, in THIS case, it failed miserably.
My "live and learn lesson" is gonna cost me $60 to replace the kit.

C'est la vie.

[HayeCious]

Wow im an artist, i want to study how to focus in painting dolls and make as celebrities look a like.. 


_________________
Structural Foam