JoeCanuck
General Section => Customs => Topic started by: martin-montreal on June 26, 2012, 09:00:37 PM
-
Wallmart does't have it anymore. I also went to other stores like Zellers, Fabricville (Frabric strore in Québec), etc. still nothing. The online store on Rit dye doesn't ship to Canada ::) and eBay sellers ask crazy shipping price.
Man, this little bottle just cost $3.99...
So, where can I find Rit dye (in Québec)?
Martin
-
I saw Rit dye not long ago (last month or so) at my local Walmart...are you sure it is not just in your local Walmart? If not, then who told you there's no more?
-
What section did you find it LJ? I have not seen it in my Wally stores here in Markham.
-
What section did you find it LJ? I have not seen it in my Wally stores here in Markham.
I found them in the aisle with all the domestic cleaning products (mops, brooms, bleach, tilex, sponges, cleaning towels etc).
-
What section did you find it LJ? I have not seen it in my Wally stores here in Markham.
I found them in the aisle with all the domestic cleaning products (mops, brooms, bleach, tilex, sponges, cleaning towels etc).
Really? I have been checking the Arts and Crafts section for nothing, LOL!!!
-
What section did you find it LJ? I have not seen it in my Wally stores here in Markham.
I found them in the aisle with all the domestic cleaning products (mops, brooms, bleach, tilex, sponges, cleaning towels etc).
Really? I have been checking the Arts and Crafts section for nothing, LOL!!!
I'm going to check again my local Walmart this friday and see if they are still there. Strangely I always imagined they would be in another section like 'fabrics'!
-
What's Rit Dye do again?
-
What's Rit Dye do again?
To dye your Joes in the colour Black.
-
More than Black... Blue, Red, Orange, Green. etc
-
What's Rit Dye do again?
Rit dy can be used on fabrics, but also on plastic: http://www.ritdye.com/content/dyed-buttons
So, on your Joes...
Martin
-
I saw Rit dye not long ago (last month or so) at my local Walmart...are you sure it is not just in your local Walmart? If not, then who told you there's no more?
I saw it 2 years ago, when my Wallmart had a fabric section. I guess I should find another Wallmart with a fabric section... Langelier?
-
More than Black... Blue, Red, Orange, Green. etc
Indeed, 26 colours: http://www.ritdye.com/store/
And you can mix and match them (Blue + Yellow = Green).
-
What's Rit Dye do again?
You can read more here: http://wiki.joecustoms.com/wiki/RIT_dye_tutorial
-
I saw it 2 years ago, when my Wallmart had a fabric section. I guess I should find another Wallmart with a fabric section... Langelier?
Carrefour Langelier yes. And It would be with the domestic cleaning products, not in the fabric section. Interesting to note, the Rit Dye used to be in the artscrafts or the fabric section, now that I remember, before it got moved to the section in which I saw it the last time.
-
Rit dye can be found in most Zellers stores, near the yarn.
Micheals craft store also carries a larger selection in colour then Zellers but it costs a bit more.
Black is easiest to work with. You can only take a plastic darker.
Not all plastic on a figure is the same. Quite often the upper legs and lower legs won't match so depending on who / what you do you should be prepared to hand paint the difference.
I've never had much luck with yellow rit dye, but that might be due to me using an old dye pot that has done lots of black / brown / red.
-
Has anyone tried RIT dye with vehicle parts? Are they hard enough (outside of rubber and soft plastic of course).
Also, just checking, but someone said it always has to be a dye job from light to dark? So I can't dye something from say olive green to yellow?
-
Has anyone tried RIT dye with vehicle parts? Are they hard enough (outside of rubber and soft plastic of course).
Also, just checking, but someone said it always has to be a dye job from light to dark? So I can't dye something from say olive green to yellow?
Vehicle parts don't dye easily. I've been doing a set of treads for the newer hiss tank for a while now. I keep taking them a bit darker, but it's not easy.
Always light to dark.
-
I just saw the Stealth parachute figure fro GIJCC.
If anyone is doing a black dye jon you might want to throw a parachute figure from the movie line. Easy custom to make. ;)
-
I was at the Walmart in Carrefour Langelier today, and I asked staff to reconfirm the status of Rit Dye availability and this is what she answered:
"Rit Dye will become very hard to find. Our store stopped receiving any for a long while now...".
Oddly enough, since last time I visited the store, they changed part of the layout, and the domestic cleaning product section was moved again, but no traces of Rit Dye anymore...It's gone.
-
I was at the Walmart in Carrefour Langelier today, and I asked staff to reconfirm the status of Rit Dye availability and this is what she answered:
"Rit Dye will become very hard to find. Our store stopped receiving any for a long while now...".
Oddly enough, since last time I visited the store, they changed part of the layout, and the domestic cleaning product section was moved again, but no traces of Rit Dye anymore...It's gone.
You beat me posting. I was at Langelier Sunday... and got the same answer. Looks like I will have to add Black Rit dy to my want...
-
At least, you got an answer! At my local Walmart, no ones seems to know what is Rit Dye.
I found some colors at Zellers and tons of black:)
I have all my stuff, i should be able to try this next week.
-
I am literally doing a dye job as I type this. I've found a few more things:
1) The rockets on the Ghost Hawk 2 do not take to dye. I've seen this a few times in the past on some figures and vehicles.
2) The new G.I. Joe movie figures don't take to dye either, or at least not Royal Blue. I wanted to take a Cobra Parachute figure and dye him a darker shade of Blue. Nothing took the dye at all. I'm use to legs legs and arms going darker then the bodies of figures, but nothing at all took. Then again nothing took to the Royal Blue dye, not even chrome and chrome LOVES rit dye.
3) Transformers are a total mix bag. I bought a spare transformers generations thundercracker and wanted to dye him black to make a Skywarp and I'm having some interesting results. The silver body looks bronze, some of the parts went nice and black and others are not as black as I would like. Maybe I'll take pictures later.
Just remember, it's easy to warp plastic when you do this. The best results I've had is boil the water in a large pot, turn the burner to a low setting, let the water cool a bit, then add the dye. If you add the dye while the water is still heating you might have the water boil over. It happened to me last year when working on the Joe Canuck stuff. It was a HUGE mess.
That and keep your parts moving. You don't want a full pot with pieces pressed to the bottom of the pot. Also, buy some latex gloves. ;)
-
At least, you got an answer! At my local Walmart, no ones seems to know what is Rit Dye.
I found some colors at Zellers and tons of black:)
I have all my stuff, i should be able to try this next week.
I only found blue at Zellers. I'm also doing some tests this week ;D
So, if tests are good, I might ask you for Black.
-
I am literally doing a dye job as I type this. I've found a few more things:
1) The rockets on the Ghost Hawk 2 do not take to dye. I've seen this a few times in the past on some figures and vehicles.
2) The new G.I. Joe movie figures don't take to dye either, or at least not Royal Blue. I wanted to take a Cobra Parachute figure and dye him a darker shade of Blue. Nothing took the dye at all. I'm use to legs legs and arms going darker then the bodies of figures, but nothing at all took. Then again nothing took to the Royal Blue dye, not even chrome and chrome LOVES rit dye.
3) Transformers are a total mix bag. I bought a spare transformers generations thundercracker and wanted to dye him black to make a Skywarp and I'm having some interesting results. The silver body looks bronze, some of the parts went nice and black and others are not as black as I would like. Maybe I'll take pictures later.
Just remember, it's easy to warp plastic when you do this. The best results I've had is boil the water in a large pot, turn the burner to a low setting, let the water cool a bit, then add the dye. If you add the dye while the water is still heating you might have the water boil over. It happened to me last year when working on the Joe Canuck stuff. It was a HUGE mess.
That and keep your parts moving. You don't want a full pot with pieces pressed to the bottom of the pot. Also, buy some latex gloves. ;)
I can't argue with you since you have so much experience with dye. But, I did a lot of reading. And from my understanding, washing the parts with acetone before the dye process start and adding a little bit of acetone in the mixture should help.
My SNAKE parts are ready! I just need some free time!
-
Is washing the parts with acetone can be dangerous for the plastic?
Another question for Morgan, if it's best to boil the water and let it cool before to add the dye, when can i add the acetone?
-
I am literally doing a dye job as I type this. I've found a few more things:
2) The new G.I. Joe movie figures don't take to dye either, or at least not Royal Blue. I wanted to take a Cobra Parachute figure and dye him a darker shade of Blue. Nothing took the dye at all. I'm use to legs legs and arms going darker then the bodies of figures, but nothing at all took. Then again nothing took to the Royal Blue dye, not even chrome and chrome LOVES rit dye.
That's pretty odd. I'm planning using Black on a couple pf the Retaliation Paratroopers in a few days (along with some 30th IG troopers). Maybe it wasn't the figure, but a bad batch of Royal Blue?
-
I can't argue with you since you have so much experience with dye. But, I did a lot of reading. And from my understanding, washing the parts with acetone before the dye process start and adding a little bit of acetone in the mixture should help.
Hmm... I never heard of that. And I would caution against both of those techniques. Acetone is an organic solvent and will melt plastic. I know people use it carefully when removing paint apps, but a general bath I can only see as asking for trouble. A wash with warm water and mild (dish) soap is a great idea prior to dying or painting, but I would stay away from anything stronger than that.
And as for adding acetone to simmering water...Acetone is extremely volatile. The boiling point is around 135F/57C. I can guess the theory might be that the acetone would "open" up the plastic to allow more dye to take, but realistically all I see happening is forcing most of the acetone to become gaseous within a residential environment. I would highly recommend against it, even as an experiment.
-
Is washing the parts with acetone can be dangerous for the plastic?
Another question for Morgan, if it's best to boil the water and let it cool before to add the dye, when can i add the acetone?
I've never touched Acetone so I can't answer that question. I would advise that before anyone starts doing dye jobs for the first time, try it on something without the acetone. The worst that just boiling water and dye is the plastic will warp if done on a high temperature. With acetone you are starting to break down the plastic, or at least that is how I understand it.
There's lots of different ways to do it. Some people like to flash boil their dye jobs, but when I've tried that I see the seems start to split. I've done I don't know how many dye jobs in the past, probably over 50 now and I prefer bringing the water up on high, reducing the heat and adding the dye, then once the water has cooled after about 5 mins I start adding pieces. The cool temperature is usually around 3.
The parachute guy I left in the pot as I brought up the temperature and then brought it down again and let him sit for a long time. The dye did start to take on his arms, head and lower legs but the body didn't change much. It just got a more dirty look to it. The guy is pretty much a right off so I'll let my son and his friends go nuts with him and his parachute in the back hard. All I really wanted off him was his web gear. The convention Cobra Stealth Parachute guy never came with the web gear that doesn't connect to the parachute, so he displayed funny. Now I can display him right.
-
I can't argue with you since you have so much experience with dye. But, I did a lot of reading. And from my understanding, washing the parts with acetone before the dye process start and adding a little bit of acetone in the mixture should help.
Hmm... I never heard of that. And I would caution against both of those techniques. Acetone is an organic solvent and will melt plastic. I know people use it carefully when removing paint apps, but a general bath I can only see as asking for trouble. A wash with warm water and mild (dish) soap is a great idea prior to dying or painting, but I would stay away from anything stronger than that.
And as for adding acetone to simmering water...Acetone is extremely volatile. The boiling point is around 135F/57C. I can guess the theory might be that the acetone would "open" up the plastic to allow more dye to take, but realistically all I see happening is forcing most of the acetone to become gaseous within a residential environment. I would highly recommend against it, even as an experiment.
Hum hum...
So what if you have something that won't take dye no matter how long you leave the parts in? Well then you need to use my secret weapon: Acetone.
Reference:
http://wiki.joecustoms.com/wiki/RIT_dye_tutorial (http://wiki.joecustoms.com/wiki/RIT_dye_tutorial)
Also:
-Tips-
Clean your head with 100% acetone before painting. Allow 1 minute before applying paint. This will allow the paint to adhere to the cast resin better. The plastic will become soft on the surface and almost gummy feeling, this is normal, and why the paint will stick better. You have opened the pours of the plastic with the acetone.
Reference:
http://project-o-ring.ecrater.com/p/14231313/arah-style-head-1 (http://project-o-ring.ecrater.com/p/14231313/arah-style-head-1)
My personal experience:
The last SNAKE at the right is my creation:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T5JZiDH_H2M/Tzs88Vaoe4I/AAAAAAAAD-s/zeRMs3ybDLs/s1152/2012-02-12-12838.jpg)
I washed all the parts with acetone first. All parts became mat and the paint I put on it adhere to the point my SNAKE is almost chip free. I still have to improve my paint technique (I put too much paint) but the adherence level is there.
Last thing about acetone... I see the word makes people scary. Yes, this thing is toxic. Don't drink it... use it in a place with open windows, etc. I used my girlfriend finger nail polish remover. It's not "that" toxic. It's made to be in contact with our skin. I won't take my shower with it, but I think you got the point.
Read everything here (not just my quotes):
SLOWLY add the acetone to your mixture and stir. Make sure you use a lid this time, both to minimize fumes and to conserve the acetone because it evaporates quickly. Turn the heat on low and let it warm for about 10 minutes. It will bubble a lot, that's OK. Once it's warm, add your parts. Now comes the hours of waiting right? WRONG! Acetone is MUCH more efficient than heat alone.
Again: http://wiki.joecustoms.com/wiki/RIT_dye_tutorial (http://wiki.joecustoms.com/wiki/RIT_dye_tutorial)
-
Yes, I read the wiki after my comment. I still stand my recommendation that people avoid using acetone for Rit dying.
My issue is not whether it works, and I won't argue that empirical evidence seems to point that it works well. My argument is that the health and safety risks of generating acetone vapors far outweighs any need to take a shortcut in customizing figures.
Understand that acetone is not "made to be in contact with our skin." It's a toxic chemical that we use as a beauty product...that does not make it safe. Regardless, my issue with it is generating flammable vapors and breathing in vapors, which has more serious health consequences that skin contact.
Before you dismiss acetone as "not that toxic", you should probably review what the CDC has to say about acetone exposure, and its short-term neurological effects and possible long-term neurological, kidney, and liver damage.
http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxfaqs/tf.asp?id=4&tid=1 (http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxfaqs/tf.asp?id=4&tid=1)
You should also review what the Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety has to say about acetone, paying particular attention to its very overt warnings not to generate vapors.
http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/chem_profiles/acetone/working_ace.html (http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/chem_profiles/acetone/working_ace.html)
While the writer of the wiki is taking some precautions by using a crock-pot outdoors, he is still (literally) playing with fire by using acetone.
Closed containers may rupture violently when exposed to fire or excessive heat for a sufficient period of time. Even dilute solutions of acetone in water may be flammable.
Heating acetone indoors is very irresponsible, no matter how many windows you have opened nearby.
-
I'm with Charade on this. I don't even like doing that much back to back rit dye jobs because I know I'm breathing in the vapor from the dye. It was never intended to be used the way we use it.
Also, I love the SNAKE second from the left. Where ever did you score such a beauty? ;)
Actually, kidding aside, the SNAKE second to the right, is that a custom cast?
And just for old times sake:
SNAKE!
-
Thanks for the answers guys!
-
I'm with Charade on this. I don't even like doing that much back to back rit dye jobs because I know I'm breathing in the vapor from the dye. It was never intended to be used the way we use it.
Also, I love the SNAKE second from the left. Where ever did you score such a beauty? ;)
Actually, kidding aside, the SNAKE second to the right, is that a custom cast?
And just for old times sake:
SNAKE!
SNAKE #1 and #3: Are UK Escape armour... both stickers variants.