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[joss789]

Is washing the parts with acetone can be dangerous for the plastic?

Another question for Morgan, if it's best to boil the water and let it cool before to add the dye, when can i add the acetone?

[Charade]

I am literally doing a dye job as I type this. I've found a few more things:

2) The new G.I. Joe movie figures don't take to dye either, or at least not Royal Blue. I wanted to take a Cobra Parachute figure and dye him a darker shade of Blue. Nothing took the dye at all. I'm use to legs legs and arms going darker then the bodies of figures, but nothing at all took. Then again nothing took to the Royal Blue dye, not even chrome and chrome LOVES rit dye.

That's pretty odd.  I'm planning using Black on a couple pf the Retaliation Paratroopers in a few days (along with some 30th IG troopers).  Maybe it wasn't the figure, but a bad batch of Royal Blue?

[Charade]

I can't argue with you since you have so much experience with dye. But, I did a lot of reading. And from my understanding, washing the parts with acetone before the dye process start and adding a little bit of acetone in the mixture should help.

Hmm... I never heard of that.  And I would caution against both of those techniques.  Acetone is an organic solvent and will melt plastic.  I know people use it carefully when removing paint apps, but a general bath I can only see as asking for trouble.  A wash with warm water and mild (dish) soap is a great idea prior to dying or painting, but I would stay away from anything stronger than that.

And as for adding acetone to simmering water...Acetone is extremely volatile. The boiling point is around 135F/57C.  I can guess the theory might be that the acetone would "open" up the plastic to allow more dye to take, but realistically all I see happening is forcing most of the acetone to become gaseous within a residential environment. I would highly recommend against it, even as an experiment.

[morgardee]

Is washing the parts with acetone can be dangerous for the plastic?

Another question for Morgan, if it's best to boil the water and let it cool before to add the dye, when can i add the acetone?

I've never touched Acetone so I can't answer that question. I would advise that before anyone starts doing dye jobs for the first time, try it on something without the acetone. The worst that just boiling water and dye is the plastic will warp if done on a high temperature. With acetone you are starting to break down the plastic, or at least that is how I understand it.

There's lots of different ways to do it. Some people like to flash boil their dye jobs, but when I've tried that I see the seems start to split. I've done I don't know how many dye jobs in the past, probably over 50 now and I prefer bringing the water up on high, reducing the heat and adding the dye, then once the water has cooled after about 5 mins I start adding pieces. The cool temperature is usually around 3.

The parachute guy I left in the pot as I brought up the temperature and then brought it down again and let him sit for a long time. The dye did start to take on his arms, head and lower legs but the body didn't change much. It just got a more dirty look to it. The guy is pretty much a right off so I'll let my son and his friends go nuts with him and his parachute in the back hard. All I really wanted off him was his web gear. The convention Cobra Stealth Parachute guy never came with the web gear that doesn't connect to the parachute, so he displayed funny. Now I can display him right.

[martin-montreal]

I can't argue with you since you have so much experience with dye. But, I did a lot of reading. And from my understanding, washing the parts with acetone before the dye process start and adding a little bit of acetone in the mixture should help.

Hmm... I never heard of that.  And I would caution against both of those techniques.  Acetone is an organic solvent and will melt plastic.  I know people use it carefully when removing paint apps, but a general bath I can only see as asking for trouble.  A wash with warm water and mild (dish) soap is a great idea prior to dying or painting, but I would stay away from anything stronger than that.

And as for adding acetone to simmering water...Acetone is extremely volatile. The boiling point is around 135F/57C.  I can guess the theory might be that the acetone would "open" up the plastic to allow more dye to take, but realistically all I see happening is forcing most of the acetone to become gaseous within a residential environment. I would highly recommend against it, even as an experiment.

Hum hum...

So what if you have something that won't take dye no matter how long you leave the parts in? Well then you need to use my secret weapon: Acetone.

Reference:
http://wiki.joecustoms.com/wiki/RIT_dye_tutorial

Also:

-Tips- 
 
 Clean your head with 100% acetone before painting. Allow 1 minute before applying paint. This will allow the paint to adhere to the cast resin better. The plastic will become soft on the surface and almost gummy feeling, this is normal, and why the paint will stick better. You have opened the pours of the plastic with the acetone.

Reference:
http://project-o-ring.ecrater.com/p/14231313/arah-style-head-1


My personal experience:

The last SNAKE at the right is my creation:



I washed all the parts with acetone first. All parts became mat and the paint I put on it adhere to the point my SNAKE is almost chip free. I still have to improve my paint technique (I put too much paint) but the adherence level is there.

Last thing about acetone... I see the word makes people scary. Yes, this thing is toxic. Don't drink it... use it in a place with open windows, etc. I used my girlfriend finger nail polish remover. It's not "that" toxic. It's made to be in contact with our skin. I won't take my shower with it, but I think you got the point.

Read everything here (not just my quotes):

SLOWLY add the acetone to your mixture and stir. Make sure you use a lid this time, both to minimize fumes and to conserve the acetone because it evaporates quickly. Turn the heat on low and let it warm for about 10 minutes. It will bubble a lot, that's OK. Once it's warm, add your parts. Now comes the hours of waiting right? WRONG! Acetone is MUCH more efficient than heat alone.

Again: http://wiki.joecustoms.com/wiki/RIT_dye_tutorial

[Charade]

Yes, I read the wiki after my comment. I still stand my recommendation that people avoid using acetone for Rit dying.

My issue is not whether it works, and I won't argue that empirical evidence seems to point that it works well.  My argument is that the health and safety risks of generating acetone vapors far outweighs any need to take a shortcut in customizing figures.

Understand that acetone is not "made to be in contact with our skin."  It's a toxic chemical that we use as a beauty product...that does not make it safe.  Regardless, my issue with it is generating flammable vapors and breathing in vapors, which has more serious health consequences that skin contact.

Before you dismiss acetone as "not that toxic", you should probably review what the CDC has to say about acetone exposure, and its short-term neurological effects and possible long-term neurological, kidney, and liver damage.

http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxfaqs/tf.asp?id=4&tid=1

 You should also review what the Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety has to say about acetone, paying particular attention to its very overt warnings not to generate vapors.

http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/chem_profiles/acetone/working_ace.html

While the writer of the wiki is taking some precautions by using a crock-pot outdoors, he is still (literally) playing with fire by using acetone.

Closed containers may rupture violently when exposed to fire or excessive heat for a sufficient period of time. Even dilute solutions of acetone in water may be flammable.

Heating acetone indoors is very irresponsible, no matter how many windows you have opened nearby.

[morgardee]

I'm with Charade on this. I don't even like doing that much back to back rit dye jobs because I know I'm breathing in the vapor from the dye. It was never intended to be used the way we use it.

Also, I love the SNAKE second from the left. Where ever did you score such a beauty? 

Actually, kidding aside, the SNAKE second to the right, is that a custom cast?

And just for old times sake:

SNAKE!

[joss789]

Thanks for the answers guys!

[martin-montreal]

I'm with Charade on this. I don't even like doing that much back to back rit dye jobs because I know I'm breathing in the vapor from the dye. It was never intended to be used the way we use it.

Also, I love the SNAKE second from the left. Where ever did you score such a beauty? 

Actually, kidding aside, the SNAKE second to the right, is that a custom cast?

And just for old times sake:

SNAKE!

SNAKE #1 and #3: Are UK Escape armour... both stickers variants.